The Challenge: Dry It Out and Define a Path

Our first order of business was to install a drainage system. This was  tricky because there was not a lot of drop to the grade. We used stakes and line levels to make sure our drain tile was going down hill all the way to the outflow box. We like to be neat, even when doing a muddy job.  A sod cutter and tarp keep our sod and soil under control while we work.

Sod Removed from Drain Trench Area

Though you can hardly tell it, a drainage system was installed parallel to the sidewalk. We think our clients will appreciate our neatness and clean-up work.

Neatness Counts

The drain crosses at the gap in the flagstone.

Next, we began to shape the pathway. Some soil was removed to make room for the Grani-Path. Flowing lines look natural. (Not a particularly good photo….dirt does not know how to pose very well.)

The Path Takes Shape

Grani-Path is made of small pieces of granite. It behaves like coarse sand and packs down nicely. The ajuga groundcover in this area will grow over the edges of this material, adding a naturalized effect.

Grani-Path

 When the flagstones are laid back in place the path starts to look very interesting. You can clearly see your way to walk through this garden.

Finished Pathway

Our Client is Happy with the Results

The Grani-Path added definition and contrast to the edges of the path. We are happy with the way this project turned out, and our client is, too. Clear input from our client and a detailed plan of action combined for a functional result that looks great.

Heavy Shade and Struggling Grass

Our clients had this situation along the side of their house. A row of hedge trees cast heavy shade along the property line. Grass was dying back into sparse clumps and rain splashed mud on the windows, retaining wall, and siding.

Decorative rock is a great choice to cover such areas. It  lessens erosion and prevents mud from splashing on the house. No grass means no mowing or trimming.

There are two downspout drains on this side of the house. We put both into underground systems. Good bye ugly splash blocks! Installed properly, these systems catch water and outflow it away from the foundation.

Downspout Drain System Ready to be Covered-Up

We take a few extra steps with our downspout drains to make them most effective. After a proper downhill grade is trenched, all underground fittings are joined with a special waterproof tape (not duct tape!) designed especially for this purpose. At the outflow end, we install a gravel pit to allow draining of the can itself. Holes in the bottom of the can let water pass into the gravel. This leaves less water for mosquitos to hatch.

Fittings Joined with Waterproof Tape

Outflow Basin with Gravel Pit

When rocks are involved it is recommended to keep them contained with edging. For this project heavy-duty steel edging was selected for its durability and longevity.

Steel Edging

Since we will be covering a large portion of the side-yard, a diagram of sprinkler locations is useful to avoid covering heads. The heads can be capped in this area since no plants will be growing here. Save some water!

Sprinkler Diagram

 A permeable weedmat below the rock allows air to reach the soil and let excess moisture escape. The weedmat supports the rock to prevent it from sinking into the ground. Six-inch steel ‘U’ staples hold the weedmat in place (as if five tons of gravel wasn’t enough!).

Heavy-duty Weedmat Installed Below Rock

 Our clients chose a decorative rock that would match their existing rock in other landscaped areas. Consistency of materials always makes us designers smile : ) Everything  looks like it belongs together. Rock makes a decent ‘mulch’ for plants, too.

Decorative Rock

The finished project fits with the rest of the landscaping. Maintenance is minimal. Fall leaves are cleaned-up with a portable blower. In the future our client plans to add step stones for increased accessibility and decoration. (By the way, last year we built the retaining wall!)

The Finished Project

Kitty Approves!

Landscaping projects can be decorative as well as functional. These are the two goals we seek to achieve in all of our projects. We feel confident we achieved these results in this project.

Before: A Clean Slate

It is not uncommon for there to be areas around the foundation where additional soil is needed. Before anything else is done these areas are re-graded to slope away from the foundation.

Low Area Near Foundation

Low Area Near Steps

 You can see we needed quite a bit of soil to get the grading right.

The Grading Begins

Finished Grade

Some deteriorating plastic weedmat needed to be removed. This will alow the soil to ‘breathe’ and excess moisture to evaporate.

Removing Old Plastic Weedmat

 As plants are brought in to the site and installation begins it can look very messy…..well, it is messy! We selected plants especially to fit this small area with low-light conditions. They need a minimum of pruning each year. 

Chaos Before Creation

Order to the design appears as the final plants are installed. Using a measuring tape takes the guess work out of finding the proper spacing between plants. Knowing a plants characteristics and growth habits is essential to a design that will look balanced for years to come.

Right Plant, Right Place

Dyed brown mulch is a popular choice to topdress a garden. Two to three inches of mulch helps prevent evaporation of moisture, slows weed growth, and looks natural. (The perennial hosta we planted in the open space in the middle of the garden will reappear in the spring; they are dormant in the late fall and drop their leaves.)

The Finished Look

Clean-up is the final step in the process. We want our new garden to look its best and keep our client’s house clean.

Clean-Up is a Part of Every Job

Many gardens are over-planted or there is little thought to the eventual size of certain plants. This will create future headaches and become a maintenance nightmare. Landscape designers need to listen carefully to their client’s requests and make appropriate plant selections for the space available.

Telephone Poles do not make good retaining walls.

First, the old poles had to be removed. Because of their length and weight they needed to be cut into pieces before loading into a dumpster.

Poles are cut and removed.

Kyle makes the cut.

A roll-off dumpster is an essential tool for this job.

Next, the wall footing is prepared. We want our base to be wider than the wall material to add stability. This footing is twenty-four inches wide. A large quantity of dirt must be moved for a footing this size.

Excavating the footing for the wall.

 Making a straight wall required removing some asphalt at the edge of the parking lot.  A gas-powered saw with a masonry blade makes the job a little bit easier and neater. Billy makes a precise cut.

Removing Excess Asphalt

Crushed limestone (or AB-3) is added and compacted for a base. Forms are set on top to create a concrete leveling pad. String lines are used to keep everything as straight as possible.

Footing Forms and AB-3 Base

 Concrete is added between 2×4 forms to make a level pad for the first course of wall units. Making our base this way gives us complete control over the elevations of the wall.

Concrete Leveling Pad

 A little girl and her dad were walking by our project and she accidentally stepped in the fresh concrete. She felt so badly about that…so I asked her to ‘sign her work.’ She felt better after she gave us an autograph and returned with her mom to see her name a couple hours later. She was so cute! Her name, as you can read, is Seren.

Seren's Autograph

With the footings level and cured it is time to bring in the materials for the wall. We chose a segmental wall system made by Pavestone (in Lee’s Summit, Missouri) and named, ‘Anchor Highland.’ My good friend, JoAnn, at Stone Solutions helped me get the right amount of material and get it ALL to the job site (We had 25 pallets of blocks delivered). There is no substitute for working with courteous and professional people like Jo Ann!

The Wall Materials Arrive on Time!

Pallets Are Staged at the Jobsite

 This wall system uses three sizes of units: 18-inch, 12-inch and 6-inch. My sore back knows them as 80-pound, 50-pound, and 20-pound (my favorite) blocks of solid concrete. Different sized blocks add interest to the wall’s appearance. To save installation time we asked our delivery man to set groups of each pallet type where we would need them. Moving heavy materials, even short distances, takes many hours of labor.

Base Units Installed on Footing

Even though our wall units are machine split into somewhat irregular shapes, we can get them quite straight using a chalk line. The base course is set with masonry adhesive which bonds the wall blocks to the footing. There is a pattern we will be using to ensure our wall joints do not line up. The base course must be installed with this pattern in mind.

This Project Is Progressing!

Our project will have three total courses and a cap. Below is a picture of the second level being installed with masonry adhesive. It is important to clean dust and debris from the surface of the blocks for the adhesive to bond properly. This course of units will follow a slightly different pattern than the one below it. 

Second Course, (Almost) Same as the First

Father Matt Ruhl, the parish priest, stops by the job site everyday to see how things are going. He said he could juggle, so we gave him a couple of the small wall units to display his skill…. We’re glad he didn’t try to juggle these blocks, but we are always glad he shares his good cheer and encouragement.

Father Ruhl Lends a Hand

Blocks are set together leaving no gaps. Dry stack construction will allow water to flow through the wall, reducing hydrostatic pressure. Three different sizes of blocks creates a pleasing pattern.

The Wall Takes Shape

The final step in this wall project is to install the cap, or coping, units. They are glued down with the same masonry adhesive that was used on each wall course. Caps are not needed on all walls, but they will look great on this one! At three-inches thick the caps will add a bit of height  making it perfect for sitting.

Caps Top It Off

We had a little visitor at our job site almost every day, Mysterio the Cat. He/She would appear and disappear like a shadow. This is a feral cat and isn’t friendly, but we appreciated its beauty and grace nonetheless. (Please spay or neuter all your pets!)

Mysterio the Cat Supervises

 The completed wall looks rustic and yet finished. Blended colors appear natural against the tree-covered hillside. Special corner units, textured on two faces, are used at the ends for a consistent appearance.

Completed Wall

What an improvement over old telephone poles! At twenty-one inches in height, this wall is perfect for keeping debris out of the parking lot. As a bonus it is a very comfy seat to enjoy a few minutes of summer shade or fall colors.

Fun facts:

Wall length = over 400 ft.

Number of pieces = 1,663

Total Weight (excluding footing materials) = 75,180 pounds

Before

During

After

“WOW! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am with the way the areas around the chapel and the front entrance to the church look! What an improvement. This is so exciting. And your colleague who trimmed the mature trees did a terrific job, too.

I’m looking forward to seeing the next round of upgrades.”

Landscaping makes a dramatic impact on the people who view it! Which space would you rather pass on your way to chapel?

Drip irrigation lines were placed below the mulch for regular and efficient watering. This special system is tied to the sprinkler controller for ‘set and forget’ convenience.

Revived Chapel Entrance

Before

Completed Project

Sod Removal and Plant Layout

After line locates were marked, the outline of the garden is established and sod removed. Drainage of rainwater is part of this project’s goal.  Since we are going to add topsoil to create a low berm, the Dwarf Alberta spruce will not be planted too deeply. As a general rule, plants should be planted at the same height as their container.

Topsoil Berm

It is a little hard to see in this picture but topsoil is added to raise the grade. The perennials were moved while the soil was added. This garden drains from back to front.

The Finished Wall

Setting the first row of wall units  perfectly level guarantees a professional result. Each block must be leveled side-to-side and front-to-back. Don’t get in a hurry with this step!

A Level Base

Crushed limestone, called AB-3, makes an excellent base material. Four-inches of base depth is sufficient for most walls under three feet in height. A wall is only as stable as its foundation.

Second Level

Second Course Is Glued

 The cap units go on last. Each one must be cut with a diamond saw for a close fit and glued down securly. A slight overhang of the caps adds a shadowline to the wall.

The finished wall serves a dual purpose. First, it keeps rainwater and lawn clipping from flowing onto the patio surface. Second, the wall makes a comfortable seating area that does not take up patio space.

The Completed Project

Project: Stamped Concrete Garden Walkway and Drainage System

This backyard project began with a detailed discussion with the homeowners about the nature of their landscaping problem. Living at the bottom of a hill a good amount of water collected in their garden. Wet soil made the existing flagstone path messy to use and a challenge to grow plants. The homeowners wanted a durable and decorative surface for walking from the deck and into the garden. It was agreed that a stamped concrete walkway designed to work with a drainage system would fit the bill. 

The form work begins

After a set of plans was created and approved the project moved into the installation phase. The forms for the concrete had to be set precisely, not too high nor too low, and to make a pleasing shape. Here the crew of F. Winter’s and Sons Flatwork sets the first of the forms.

Details Count!

The details count in the quality of the finished project!  Our walkway had some rounded edges so the forms needed to be right on the money. Butch Winter’s, holding the tape measure, is the kind of detail-minded contractor we enjoy working with!

The project takes shape

 The forms are set and almost ready for concrete. I enjoyed watching the crew set everything up so precisely. Love those curves!  Note the two conduit pipes installed under the walk on the left side. These pipes will allow us to run wiring for a low-voltage lighting system later on. Planning ahead makes life a lot easier!

Rebar adds structural strength

Compacted gravel and half-inch rebar complete the prep work for the pathway. The rebar provides structural strength to the concrete and the gravel acts as a cushion against frost-heaving soil. (By the way, the decorative boulder in the center of the planter area took four men to move!) Now that the base is ready the fun begins!

The concrete arrives

Kyle Winters watches as his ‘Georgia Buggy’ is filled with dyed concrete. It is not as simple as pouring color into the hopper. You have to know what you are doing to get the right amount of pigment into the mix.  Mixing the color into the concrete, instead of a surface stain or paint, makes for a quality job.

Pouring Mud

Concrete is poured into the forms and the clock starts ticking. Concrete doesn’t wait around for anybody! The crew gets busy filling up the forms and lifting the rebar into the center of the mix. It’s critical to have plenty of help on a concrete job because you don’t get a second chance to do it right!

Smoothing the Surface

A screed board is used to level out the concrete and fill the forms evenly. Trowels are used to smooth the surface and fill all voids and air pockets. 

Ready for stamping

This walkway is ready for stamping. The key to a quality job is waiting for the right moment when the concrete is set up enough to take the impression of the stamp without creating ‘bird baths’, or low spots, in the surface. It pays to work with experienced professionals who know what to do and when.

Preparing the Stamps

A liquid release agent is applied to the stamps and surface of the concrete to prevent sticking. Beleive it or not, this type of release smelled like bubble gum! The stamps are thick, flexible, rubber-like mats. A stone texture relief is on the surface of each stamp.

Stamping Concrete

 Texture mats are tapped firmly into the curing surface of the walkway with a special tool. Mats are overlapped and rotated the entire length of the walkway. This creates a seamless, random pattern.

Looks Like Stone, Strong Like Concrete

Texture mats leave an impression that looks like real stone.  There are a couple more steps, however, before this part of the project is completed. Crack control joints must be cut into the concrete. The surface must be washed and a  contrasting color applied to ‘antique’ the surface. Low areas will be darker, high areas lighter. The second color really ‘pops’ the texture from the stamps.

Finished Surface

 The finished surface looks great and will last for years! It is recommended that additional sealers be applied every two or three years to keep the colors bright.

The Completed Walkway

 The next step will be to finish out the drainage system, add topsoil to the exposed edges, and landscape the open areas.